Then it merges the two together and blends the blank one into the shadow areas of the first one which is where noise typically shows the most. The way it works is that if you take say a 10 second exposure, it takes a second one of equal length but just black (the shutter doesn’t open).

This setting, while it does a really good job of noise reduction, adds an extra complication you don’t need when doing photography of fireworks. #3 Turn OFF long exposure noise reduction. Long exposures also tend to increase noise so if you add it all up you get a lot of noise so keep the ISO low to eliminate that variable. Noise also lives in blue areas of images and nighttime has a lot of blue so that compounds the issue. First the higher the ISO you use the more noise you’ll introduce into your images, so keep it low to prevent that. This image was actually purchased by the company that put on the fireworks show in Portland. I wrote an article on my site on Tips for buying a tripod of you need more info on what to get. I say STURDY tripod because it needs to hold your camera steady for several seconds without sinking, tipping, or wobbling. Use a sturdy tripod and remote to fire the camera and bring an extra battery as long exposures tend to use them up quickly. So take these tips to help you get started. Each time I photograph fireworks there’s always some element that’s unpredictable so you have to learn to adapt and learn from your own mistakes, correct for next time and do it again.

Please remember that if you’ve never tried fireworks before it’s all trial and error and I’ve made a lot of mistakes myself before I got any images that I was happy to show anyone. The biggest thing to remember is that it’s all about practice, experimentation, and the following mantra (say it with me!) It’s getting close to fireworks time of year so today we wanted to present you with a few tips to help you photograph fireworks displays.

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